Back on the Road

I spent much of today on the road, back on the 1 northbound. I departed Oakland shortly after 8 and immediately ran into massive traffic getting over the bridge into Marin County. Construction of some sort added about 30 minutes to what should have been just a few. After stopping by Starbucks for breakfast and REI for trekking poles, I made it to Reyes Point just before noon. It was pretty chilly, having dropped just below 60ºF with strong winds.

The Abbotts Lagoon Trail hike was more of a walk, with roughly three miles taking roughly an hour and a half. I didn’t see many animals or flowers, but I did see lots of sand dunes and reasonably large waves on the ocean side. At the start of the trail, I spotted a snake just before it spotted me. It scampered off quickly. I saw several small birds that weren’t afraid of people. There was a heron (I think) that was very non-photogenic. I didn’t see any Snowy Plovers despite much of the area being fenced off for their nesting.

Greens
Dunes

For lunch, I stopped by Side Street Kitchen in the town of Point Reyes Station for a delightful meal. Usually I don’t like vegetarian sandwiches as a concept—sandwiches generally are a vessel for eating meat protein—but this one was an exception. The Mt. Tam Baguette had a brie cheese from the creamery next door, honey crisp apples, fancy mustard, arugula, and melted leeks. It was very good.

After departing from Point Reyes Station, I was out of civilization for a long while. I had no cell service and passed by maybe five towns with populations ranges from 50 to 500. Basically, I just saw five gas stations, five grocery markets, and five restaurants from Point Reyes to Fort Bragg. I did stop by Bodega Bay for a quick ice cream, which was the worst ice cream of my trip, but it was still decent.

Bodega Bay

After about four hours of driving windy coastal roads, I made it to Fort Bragg, where there were Starbucks, multiple gas stations, multiple restaurants, shopping centers, all the signs of a decent sized town. It’s just after 8pm now and I’m in a hotel room eating a grocery store salad. It feels good not to eat at a restaurant for once.

Grocery store dinner

Tomorrow I’m planning to head north to Redwood National Park. I was so excited to hike some of the trails there until I saw the weather forecast: 100% chance of rain. So instead I may spend much of the day in Eureka, visiting a craft chocolate shop that a co-worker described as the “best chocolate ever”. Thankfully, I don’t need to be out of the Redwood National Park area until Friday afternoon, so I should be able to get in a hike Friday morning before passing into Oregon.

Sunset on Glass Beach
More sunset, less sun

A Day in Oakland

I expected that today would be a good day and it was. After sleeping a good 8 hours, Will and I departed to Firebrand Artisan Breads for pastries and Royal Coffee for coffee. My banana walnut muffin and passionfruit Kouign Amann were delicious and the coffee place was unlike anything I had seen before. Behind the café were two rooms with large glass windows for walls. One room was the roasting facility and another was a training room with all kinds of coffee making equipment. For each of the coffee offerings on the menu, I could choose between about a dozen different beans. Because I don’t like making decisions, I just got exactly the same thing as Will did: a cortadito. Don’t ask me which bean and roast we got because I don’t remember.

Next up, we went on a moderate 8 mile, 1000 ft elevation hike in Redwood Regional Park in Oakland. The French Trail and Stream Trail Loop took us along a stream and ridge. There were lots of ups and downs and we saw several dogs along the way. It ended up being a good 4 hour exercise and adventure in nature. For most the trail, large redwoods shaded the path.

Will took this picture on his iPhone 8
I took this photo on my iPhone 6

When we were done with the hike, we decided that it was time for tacos. After hiking, getting tacos is always a good idea. We went to Cholita Linda in Temescal and ate so much food. We then decided that so much food was not enough to we went across the street to Curbside Creamery for ice cream.

yasssss

The day ended back at Will’s house, where we had some time to unwind and I did another load of laundry. I decided to break up my trip a bit further so that I don’t have to do any 9 hour drives in one day. Tomorrow, after stopping by REI to pick up some trekking poles, I’ll head north to Point Reyes for an easy hike and to Mendocino to check out the glass beach. I end the day in Fort Bragg, where I am staying for the night.

Frequently Asked Questions

During my trip, I’ve been asked a variety of questions from people I know and people I don’t know. Here are some of highlights:

  • Why the west coast? Over the past few years I started doing more travel in the US, and I’ve discovered how much this country I have yet to explore. The US has a lot to offer for travelers. Several years ago, my uncle, who is from California, expressed confusion as to why so many people are traveling to Europe and Asia instead of the US west coast. I can now empathize with him. I also have some friends out in Seattle whom I’ve promised to visit for the past five years but have as of yet failed to do so.
  • Are you planning to move to California and scouting it out? No.
  • What dating apps do you use? Uhhh
  • “I’m driving the Pacific Coast Highway north.” How far are you going? “To Seattle.” Wow that’s really far.
  • Are you Canadian? You sound Canadian. I’ve never been told this before but it happened twice in 24 hours.

Return to Oakland

I’m now back in Oakland, in a familiar place, the room I spent the first few nights of my trip nearly four weeks ago. I return from the south, this time with a car, for two nights before I continue my journey northward. It feels nice to be in a familiar environment, as I begin a new part of my travels.

I’m excited to spend the next day hanging out with my friend in the East Bay. It will be a good time to slow down and catch up, since when I saw him at the start of the trip it was a bit of a whirlwind with lots of people.

Now I am going to spend the rest of the evening reading and doing laundry, since I am almost out of clothes. Today was good. Tomorrow will also be good.

Some flowers from the garden this morning

Double Park Afternoon

I spent my afternoon in two parks. First, I stopped by Apple Park in Cupertino, home of the Ring Building, otherwise known as the mothership. In the visitor center, there is a large scale model of the campus, made out of solid machined aluminum with an anodize finish. Employees handed out iPads with an AR app, showing what’s in each building, how it looks at any time of day, and how the cooling and electrical systems work. It was pretty neat. I got a cappuccino at Caffe Macs and wandered around for a bit. There’s not too much to see if you’re not an employee, but the campus is beautiful, full of trees, flowers, and other things green.

It’s hard to get a good view from the outside

In a fanboy fashion, I shelled out $25 for an Apple Park tote bag. The bag came in a box that made it look like any Apple product 10x – 100x the price. The employee taking my payment asked me if I wanted a bag for $0.10. I explained, no…I’m buying a bag already, but he failed to understand the irony.

Second park

Next, I departed for Rancho San Antonio Preserve, just west of Cupertino in Los Altos. As is growing more common, there are signs for mountain lions, though these signs provided more information about what to do if confronted. I didn’t see any mountain lions, but I did see lots of wildlife.

One of many turkeys

On my roughly one mile hike up and around, I encountered birds of prey, beetles, and a hare. There were many squirrels, with plenty to eat and no fear of humans. I sent a picture to one of my nature-loving friends who identified it as a California roundboi. I also saw about two dozen turkeys, some of which were in a group running together on the path. Again I realized the limitation of my iPhone 6 camera in taking wildlife photos, but I managed a few okay shots since these birds and squirrels were so unafraid of me.

California roundboi

I’m not sure if the preserve always looks this way, but it was vividly green with lots of flowers. Some areas were wide open grasses with picnic tables and large paths for runners. Other areas were surrounded by trees, with narrow, less-traveled paths. I could have gone for a longer hike, but I instead decided to sit and read for a while.

Colors

Soon, I depart for dinner with a college friend whom I haven’t seen since graduation. Then I’m off to Oakland.

Taking Time to Reflect

This morning I slept in again until about 9. My appetite, which disappeared about a day ago after being uncharacteristically voracious, has still not returned, so I nibbled on some leftover skillet vegetables and an orange. I’ll have some nuts and a granola bar later before lunch to keep up my energy.

Occasionally I get tired and lose my appetite like this, but it’s not happened in months now. Over the years I have seen some doctors about it but they can’t seem to find a source. Typically removing stress, eating well, and exercising solves the issue. The best case takes a couple days and the worst case has taken weeks or months. I found that trying to determine a root cause is a not helpful exercise and the best thing is just to understand that my body sometimes behaves this way and to work through it.

Having said all this, I would say I’ve been eating well and getting a decent amount of exercise. Though I have only been to two yoga classes in the almost four weeks that I’ve been on the west coast, I have done my fair share of skiing, walking, kayaking, biking, and hiking. I don’t have any typical stressors in my life right now. I am not working and I haven’t been too alarmed at seeing my bank account balance steadily drop.

Often, I’ve found stressors come from places that I’d least expect it and at times when I’d least expect it. Over the past few weeks, I’ve been packing a lot into my days and I haven’t really had too much time to sit back and reflect. I’ve maybe read two chapters in my book since I left San Diego. My last several posts have also morphed into pretty uninteresting descriptions of my day with little interesting commentary. It would not be surprising if there is something stressing me out right now that I haven’t spent the attention to discover.

Let’s take a look at the next few days. I am meeting with friends for lunch and dinner today. Tonight and tomorrow night, I am staying at a friend’s house, and we are spending the day together. On Wednesday morning, I depart north with no plans. I haven’t booked any hotels or even looked up what to do. By Sunday I’d like to be in Portland, where I will be staying for three nights in a Yurt that might not have electricity or running water. I’ve been on the move for coming up on four weeks now, staying in one place for no more than three days.

There is something about not having a place to be settled that I find a bit discomforting. I sometimes wonder whether renting a camper van would have been a better choice for this trip. I could park it basically wherever and I would have had a constant place to retire to whenever I wanted. Right now, I really only feel grounded at night and in the early morning, so my day is always a blur. Renting a camper van probably would be about the same cost as what I am doing now. On the other hand, I am meeting new people and discovering new places the way I am traveling, and I much prefer driving a smaller car. So I think I overall prefer things the way that they are now.

Knowing that I have control over the next few days can be comforting. I know that it is about 8 hours to get from Oakland to Eureka on the coast. I found a cheap and comfortable hotel in Eureka that I can book today. I know that it is about 4 hours to get from Eureka to Grant’s Pass, where my uncle’s brother lives. I need to call him up, but I can do that later today. From there it looks like there are several towns before Portland on the coast, but I don’t want to book any hotels yet as that would impose too strict a schedule.

I also know that writing things down like this is a good way to diffuse stress, whether I know its source or not. Normally I would just write this all down in some note on my phone. As I am writing this travel log, I figured that it is useful to publish it. It seems that many people think that this kind of travel is non-stop glamorous, but I know from close friends who have done it that it is usually not. And that’s fine.

When starting this trip, I wanted to know what it feels like to not have to do anything, and I have realized that I don’t really know how to do that. With empty time, I just fill it with something, usually too many things. I think I just want to relax, but usually I don’t. I get stir crazy easily. And I get overwhelmed if I do too much. So I need to re-strike the right balance. I have the opportunity to do just that over the next few days.

Once I get to Portland, I will be spending a few days with my old roommate, who has been living a semi-nomadic life for the past four and a half years. He and his girlfriend have some fun things planned, including hiking Mount Hood. It’s 30 miles and 6000 ft in elevation gain over two days, which is a bit more than double what I can typically do. It sounds like a lot of fun, though I might suggest that we find a mountain that is half as big.

OK, I need to get going for lunch soon. Here is a picture of some dinosaurs I saw this morning:

A Calming Day in Half Moon Bay and Palo Alto

I rolled out of bed just before 9 after sleeping nearly 9 hours uninterrupted. Packing so much into my days and always being on the move for the past few weeks is catching up to me quickly. I decided it was time for a low key day.

I’m staying at a friend’s parents’ house in San José and they have been wonderful hosts. We were going to either visit the Filoli Gardens in Woodside or visit my friend’s sister in Half Moon Bay. As I’m going to the Berkeley Botanical Gardens on Tuesday and as I saw a bunch of signs for Half Moon Bay on my way up from Monterey, I opted for the latter. More, my friend’s sister’s cats are Instagram famous and I was very excited to meet them.

Star struck

On the way there, we took my hosts Tesla Model 3. I’d never been inside one before and it was unlike any car I’d been in before—and not just because it was electric. Tesla truly rethought from the ground up what and how a car should be in today’s world. I can’t say I agree with all of the decisions that they made, but I can certainly say I was impressed with their boldness and often streamlined way of designing.

There’s no regular dashboard—there’s just a giant touchscreen in the center console. The controls for temperature control and other settings are designed around this kind of screen. It has auto-pilot for the highway that includes changing lanes, merging, and using on and off ramps. It’s clearly a car designed by tech nerds, so there are some cool features and also some dumb UX choices. On the screen, it shows an realtime animation of the car with lane markers and other vehicles around it—vehicles are actually rendered as sedans or trucks or motorcycles. The button to open the door and adjust the window are right next to each other and look the same.

Play time

Enough about Tesla; let me tell you about cats. They are adorable. Mister is basically a dog trapped in a cat’s body. He likes people and he craves attention. He’s also a great jumper capable of backflips. Moo is a bit shier, but she is incredibly photogenic. She also likes getting pet but she doesn’t really want you to know it.

Before leaving Half Moon Bay, we took a walk along the beach, where we saw bicyclists, horses, and many beachgoers. Just a few miles up is a big surfer spot that’s known to get waves as high as 60 feet. It’s a quaint town on the water, that feels more remote than much of the Bay Area but really isn’t that far away from San Francisco or San José.

My next stop was Palo Alto, where I was meeting up with several college friends whom I hadn’t seen in five years. Originally, we were planning to play board games, but we were just catching up talking so we never got around to it before heading out for dinner. We walked to University Ave nearby Stanford for dinner and, of course, ice cream. It was great seeing them and learning what’s new and what’s the same. We all seem to be at different points in our lives—finishing up a PhD, joining a startup, Googling, learning web development, engineering, vacationing—but it felt just like old times.

Of course, I failed to take a group photo and instead just took several photos of my friends’ cat Viola. She reminds me very much of my cat, though she is a bit lighter (both weight and color) and more docile than Aayla.

Because the others have work in the morning, we wrapped up reasonably early. It worked out well for me because by 9pm I was already tired. Very tired. More tired than I recall being in a long time. I’m hoping a few more calmer days will bring back my energy.

Elkhorn Slough at Moss Landing

I passed out around 10 last night, after a long day in Monterey, sleeping like a rock well past my alarm that was set for 7:30 in the morning. It turns out that the afternoon sun did a number on me. Setting off for Moss Landing just before noon, I stopped for a delicious and filling lunch at the Haute Enchilada Café.

When I got to Kayak Connection, I learned that due to a scheduling error, I was getting a solo tour, which they typically can’t do. My guide was Bonnie, a college student who has been giving these tours for the past two and a half years while also working at the Monterey aquarium. She loved all of the wildlife we saw on the three hour tour and was knowledgeable about the animals, plants, and location.

The highlight animals on the tour were the harbor seals, sea lions, and otters. We saw some very tiny seal pups, which I learned are black when they are born and slowly get lighter. Since seals don’t sweat, they release toxins into their skin which they molt annually. Some of these toxins are iron (from sea urchin in their diet), which cause their fur to turn red before molting. That was our way to identify how old the baby seal pups were. One was being very vocal on the shore and none of the adult seals around it could figure out why.

There were also many otter babies on their mothers’ stomachs floating on the water. These otters spend most of their day eating, as they need to consume a ton of calories to keep on weight and maintain body temperature. In addition to these majestic baby animals, we saw starfish, snails, seagulls (which a friend recently told me is a combination of sea + eagle, but I believe he is mistaken), terns, cormorants (whose necks are turning bright blue for mating season), a loon, godwits, and several other birds whose names I have already forgotten.

You might wonder why I haven’t included any pictures to this point. California state law requires that people stay at least 150 feet away from these animals, and I really learned the limits of the iPhone 6 camera digital zoom. The only good fish I got was of a starfish, who I learned was infected with a bad starfish virus.

Get well soon, buddy

After the kayak tour ended, I went to Santa Cruz to get some ice cream at the Penny Ice Creamery. I stayed in Santa Cruz for less than thirty minutes. Maybe it was just the part I was in, but it didn’t feel very welcoming. After finishing my ice cream, I headed north to San José, where I am staying with a friend’s parents for the next two nights. They made teriyaki salmon for dinner—yes I ate ice cream before dinner—and we talked until late into the evening.

I’m not sure what tomorrow has in store for me, but I do know that I will end my day by getting an ice cream sandwich with college friends at Cream nearby Stanford.

Monterey

I’m back on the grid again. I spent the night at the Historic Landmark House in Seaside, just east of Monterey.

The day started off cold and rainy so I went first to the Monterey Aquarium to visit the cast of Spongebob.

Patrick says hi
Mr Krabs wants yer money
“Do you smell it? That smell. A kind of smelly smell. The smelly smell that smells… smelly.”
Ready to go jellyfishing?
The Spongebob references end with these seagrass eels

After I left the aquarium, the rain stopped and the sun emerged from the clouds. I had a quick lunch at Happy Girl Kitchen, a great healthy vegetarian place a few blocks from the aquarium. I rented an electric bike and rode the 17 Mile Drive. It’s basically this scenic route through the beaches, expensive houses, and golf courses. If you take a car, you have to pay to get on the road. I’d never used an electric bike before, and it was a cool experience. You set a “passenger assist” level to between 0 and 6. Since the bike weighed 80 lbs, I rarely used the powerless setting. Most of the time I cruised around on 1-2, reserving 3 for steep hills.

The Lone Cyprus

At some point on the way back, I stopped along a beach and stared into the ocean for a bit.

My view from the beach

After returning for the bike, I guess I wasn’t tired enough, so I walked a few miles along the coast. I was craving fish and chips and some quick googling pointed me to the London Bridge Pub. It was pretty good, but not as good as the ice cream I got afterwards at Revival. I missed one day of ice cream yesterday, so I’ll need to get an extra ice cream in at some point.

“I am having a love affair with this ice cream sandwich”

Before I leave for my kayak wildlife tour of Moss Landing, I will leave you with some pictures of this wonderful bed and breakfast. The place was extremely clean and well decorated with art painted by the owners. I highly recommend staying here if you’re in the area. They provided a delicious breakfast and gave some good lunch suggestions.

At breakfast I got to meet some of the guests and staff. A woman and her mother-in-law were in town from Fremont for a quilting show. Charlotte, one of the staff members, has been living here for a few months now—originally from Kentucky but using this place as an artist residency. Annemarie, one of the owners, created many of the paintings hung around the house. While my 3D printed snail didn’t compare, they appreciated it and left it next to their guestbook. I met the cat and dog and chickens too.

The house is surrounded on all sides by gardens
The girls came to greet me in the morning
Good girl